Reviewed by a Galpal
The Schoolhouse at Cannondale
Sunday, September 07, 2008
Tucked behind the Cannondale train station in Wilton lurks a surprisingly lively going out spot. The Schoolhouse at Cannondale, posing as an intimate purveyor of haute cuisine in a charming historic schoolhouse, actually delivers an elegant party atmosphere (code for loud) for you and 39 of your closest friends, or 39 other diners. The sophisticated architectural decor in brown and white belies the quaint exterior, and the evolved menu is anything but stodgy. The Friday night early shift hosted tables of two to four. Later tables came in groups of six to ten to celebrate birthdays, schmooze with the chef, and enjoy that "everybody knows your name" feeling. The service certainly aims to please, from helping us choose memorable dishes (like the Scallops with Bacon, Peas and Celery Root Puree or Coconut Rice Pudding with Mango Ice Cream) to crediting us for a second glass of wine that for some reason didn't hold a candle to the first.
The precise menu makes it easy to choose, another plus when you're in a group. A constantly changing plan of five appetizers, five entrees, and five desserts gives chef Tim LaBant the opportunity to riff on key components (currently asparagus, salad, foie gras, gnocci and cheese plate for appetizers, filet mignon, pork loin, sea scallops, squab and halibut for entrees) while showcasing seasonal and local produce. The flavors sing in combination with elements like smoky bacon cubes, seared brussels sprouts and fried polenta puffs. A blackboard lists the month's harvest: fava beans, green almonds, ramps, chanterelles, morels and beyond. Don't be afraid if you don't know what a ramp is, your server or even the chef himself will gladly bring some out to show you, without making you feel like a bumpkin, or rather a city slicker. Their mission is to introduce their guests to "the finest ingredients from both local CT farms and exceptionally passionate farmers from around the nation." So what have you got to lose?
Another reason the restaurant works well with a group is that it makes it a little easier to overlook the little things. Our first serving of Wave Hill bread was crunchy and dry, while the next was soft and warm, much fresher. The Five Spice Seared Hudson Vallley Foie Gras, while being rich and balanced with salty gorgonzola, pickled red cabbage and sweet pomegranate molasses, was somehow overwhelmed by the butter-soaked crouton on which it perched. Ditto the Parisian Gnocchi with Brussels Sprouts and Applewood Smoked Bacon, which was fried to a delicate, cheesy crust but was somehow swimming in butter. While pairing avocado with filet mignon in the Chili Rubbed Copper Ridge Filet of Beef sounded intriguing, in practice it made the flavor and juiciness of the meat seem to recede. The well-chosen wine list includes gems from the old and new world, with several options by the glass, but nary a Gewurtzraminer or a Reisling to be found to pair with the foie gras. The Sauvignon Blanc recommended by my server was too thin for the job.
Not the intimate date night we expected, but certainly a fun and sophisticated spot to bring another couple or two. Try it out, and try it again, because this place is on its way to being truly top notch.
Appetizers cost $15, entrees $32-39, desserts $10, wines by the glass around $9 with bottles ranging up to $333.
Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday, brunch on Sundays.
Reservations taken by phone or online from their website serviced by www.opentable.com.
Seasonal patio dining overlooks the river.
A tasting menu is available, plus occasional special events and catering.
The Schoolhouse at Cannondale
34 Cannon Road
Wilton, CT 06897
834-9816
theschoolhouseatcannondale.com
The precise menu makes it easy to choose, another plus when you're in a group. A constantly changing plan of five appetizers, five entrees, and five desserts gives chef Tim LaBant the opportunity to riff on key components (currently asparagus, salad, foie gras, gnocci and cheese plate for appetizers, filet mignon, pork loin, sea scallops, squab and halibut for entrees) while showcasing seasonal and local produce. The flavors sing in combination with elements like smoky bacon cubes, seared brussels sprouts and fried polenta puffs. A blackboard lists the month's harvest: fava beans, green almonds, ramps, chanterelles, morels and beyond. Don't be afraid if you don't know what a ramp is, your server or even the chef himself will gladly bring some out to show you, without making you feel like a bumpkin, or rather a city slicker. Their mission is to introduce their guests to "the finest ingredients from both local CT farms and exceptionally passionate farmers from around the nation." So what have you got to lose?
Another reason the restaurant works well with a group is that it makes it a little easier to overlook the little things. Our first serving of Wave Hill bread was crunchy and dry, while the next was soft and warm, much fresher. The Five Spice Seared Hudson Vallley Foie Gras, while being rich and balanced with salty gorgonzola, pickled red cabbage and sweet pomegranate molasses, was somehow overwhelmed by the butter-soaked crouton on which it perched. Ditto the Parisian Gnocchi with Brussels Sprouts and Applewood Smoked Bacon, which was fried to a delicate, cheesy crust but was somehow swimming in butter. While pairing avocado with filet mignon in the Chili Rubbed Copper Ridge Filet of Beef sounded intriguing, in practice it made the flavor and juiciness of the meat seem to recede. The well-chosen wine list includes gems from the old and new world, with several options by the glass, but nary a Gewurtzraminer or a Reisling to be found to pair with the foie gras. The Sauvignon Blanc recommended by my server was too thin for the job.
Not the intimate date night we expected, but certainly a fun and sophisticated spot to bring another couple or two. Try it out, and try it again, because this place is on its way to being truly top notch.
Appetizers cost $15, entrees $32-39, desserts $10, wines by the glass around $9 with bottles ranging up to $333.
Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday, brunch on Sundays.
Reservations taken by phone or online from their website serviced by www.opentable.com.
Seasonal patio dining overlooks the river.
A tasting menu is available, plus occasional special events and catering.
The Schoolhouse at Cannondale
34 Cannon Road
Wilton, CT 06897
834-9816
theschoolhouseatcannondale.com
